We Indians love our biriyani and we mean it. Weddings, birthdays, anniversary, celebration, India winning tournament, or just feeling like eating something nice- Biryani it is!
There are lots of different stories about origination of biriyani in India but the most common one is that Biryani is derived from the Farsi word ‘Birian’. Based on the name, and cooking style (Dum), one can conclude that the dish originated in Persia and/or Arabia.
Now that was about the name biriyani and also different regions of India have different kinds or biriyani and their own history. I will list out a few for your understanding:
1. 2 AD mentions a Rice Dish known as “Oon Soru” (Tamil) which was used to “feed” military warriors. The ingredients mentioned were rice, ghee, meat, turmeric powder, coriander powder, pepper and bay leaf. This looks closer to Biryani we know of today.
2. Taimur (1336-1405) happens to be the “muslim ruler” who brought this dish to India from Persia according to some documentation. Taimur was in India between 1394 and 1399.
3.There is also story mentioned in Mughal Era that Mumtaz Mahal(1593-1631) once did a surprise visit to army barracks, and found that the army personnel were under nourished. She asked her chef to cook a dish which has Rice, Meat and spices giving carbs, protiens etc in right quantity to the warriors and this is the origins of Biryani. Now this story has resemblance to fact presented in #1 and in time line can be considered factually correct after Taimur’s invasion.
4. Lucknow (Awadhi) Biryani is considered the “start” of all the Biryani’s.
5. 1856, British deposed Nawab Wajid Ali Shah in Calcutta, as his cooks moved with him to Calcutta it gave rise to Calcutta Biryani.
6. Hyderabadi Biryani also has its traces in Mughal Empire. It is believed that Aurangzeb invaded the South and installed the Nizam-ul-mulk who later became the Nizam of Hyderabad. That explains the movement of the Biryani down south. From the Nizam’s kitchen originated the Hyderabadi Biryani and the complimentary sides Mirchi ka Salan, Dhanshak and Baghare Baingan.
7. The other branch of biryani is supposed to have crossed the Arabian Sea and come to Calicut, brought in by the Arab traders. The Calicut Biryani is served with vinegar pickles and papads fried in coconut oil, is a softer variety and light on the stomach has no relation in terms of taste to the other biryanis in the country.
8. In the northwest Memoni Biryani (people who inhabited the area between Sindh Gujarat and Pakistan) got evolved which is an extremely spicy biryani.
9. Another northwest Biryani that got famous is Sindhi Biryani which has its unique flavour through addition of “dried plums” and it also borrows addition of “potatoes” from Bombay Biryani.
I am sure while reading this article your mouth must be watering to gorge on some sumptuous dum biriyani. Well what are you waiting for rush to Kakori kababs and curries because I am rushing there!
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